Five Dogs in The Gap

Written by Mike on November 11th, 2010

When a man’s best friend is his dog, that dog has a problem.

-Edward Abbey

It had been a while. Fall fishing is some of my favorite and it had not been a good year. Parental obligations and poor health kept me off the water for the most part. Due to a surgery, I even missed a deer hunt after waiting on a tag for six years. To say I was ready to get out is an understatement. My skin was crawling.

So when I got a phone call on Sunday afternoon asking if I wanted to head up to Lee’s Ferry, I was all in. A friend had someone unable to make a planned trip. Norris was looking for a last minute replacement when he gave me a ring.  A little over an hour later, we were on the road.

Lee's Ferry Rainbow

Four Mile Bar Rainbow Trout

Many of the trips I have made to the Ferry the last few years have been with friends Rusty and Scott. One reason I like traveling with them is that even though we are all forty-to-fifty-something, we are not afraid to let the kid come out a little. An example of this would be a game they came up with: “Guess the Number of Dogs in The Gap”.

The Gap is a small Navajo Nation town between Tuba City and Page on Highway 89. On the way to Lee’s Ferry, it is little more than a wide spot in the road; the speed limit only drops by 10 mph. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in canine population. So to play “Guess the Number of Dogs in The Gap” everyone chooses a number of dogs which they think will be visibly present between the two town limit road signs. The closest guess, without going over, wins.

If you call it up front, three-legged dogs can count for two.

It was nearing sunset last Sunday as Norris as I approached The Gap. After a brief explanation of the game and the rules, I offered up the number five and he chose four. Slowing down, we scanned porch, driveway and roadside for pooch. We counted to four pretty quickly. It appeared beginner’s luck was in his favor as we approached the sign on the far side of town. Just in time a dog appeared in a gulch. It was a narrow win, but a win none-the-less: five dogs in The Gap.

Less than an hour later we arrived at Lee’s Ferry Anglers. At the shop, Ted had some ominous news: the weather looked grim. While not a lot of rain was forecast, high winds were expected. Owing to the fact I needed to be back in town for work on Tuesday, Norris and I resolved to go out on Monday anyway, if possible. After all,  the best time to fish is when you are there. Following a nice dinner we retired for the night mixed with apprehension and anticipation. The apprehension was concern for the weather. Dreams of trout supplied the anticipation.

More than most places, Lee’s Ferry has provided anticipation. I know I am not alone either. On my first pilgrimage there more than two decades past, a friend and I stayed at the campground. He woke me in the middle of the night with cries of “Mike! Mike! Did you see him! Did you see him! Get the net! Hurry!”. After realizing he was dreaming of big trout, I zipped back up my sleeping bag and went back to sleep.

The anticipation is still contagious to this day. I woke early on Monday and could not get back to sleep. With a couple hours to dream about fish of my own,  tying up some zebra midges was in order. The vise, thread, bobbin, beads, hooks and wire did the trick. It was breakfast and ramp time in the blink of an eye.

Four Mile Bar, Lees Ferry

Four Mile Bar

We met Tyson Warren at the ramp and were off to Four Mile. Being a weekday with a poor weather forecast, there were few boats on the river. As Tyson and Norris headed up to wade the bar, I headed to the channel. Every time I looked upstream, it seemed like Norris had one on. I was doing pretty well at sticking them on a zeeb, but they kept popping right off. After losing four in a row, I checked my hook. Sure enough the point was broken off. I must have damaged it pinching down the barb. Like the fifth dog in The Gap the day before, the fifth hook-up was the winner and I got it to hand.

One thing I have learned about fishing Four Mile, is the day goes fast if you are not paying attention. The two other boats which were on the river had come up and then gone back down when the wind started kicking up. We were pretty much alone on the river; two anglers,  one guide, and hundreds of thousands of trout. Some of these had worked there way up into the shallow channel and when the wind was not ripping the surface I could sight cast to them. Occasionally seeing one move to the side when my fly was in the vicinity  I would raise my rod and be fast to a hard fighting fish in current. The current was picking up with the rising water too. Before lunch the entire bar was covered which was washing insects into the water. Outside of fishing the foam eddies and the summer cicada season, this is one of the few opportunities to fish up top at Lee’s Ferry. So we threw foam terrestrials for a while and each brought a couple more to hand.

After lunch we headed upstream for a pleasure cruise. The wind was blowing too hard for drift fishing and the bars were submerged. So we just enjoyed the ride and Tyson’s history lessons. Afterward, we headed back to Four Mile and worked the back channel for an hour or so. It was a little more sheltered. Norris was on fire hooking up on almost every cast. I did not do nearly as well, but still enjoyed every minute of our fleeting day.

Back at the ramp we bid goodbye to Tyson and settled in for the long trip back to Phoenix. It was nearly dusk as we approached The Gap and storm clouds were on the horizon. We were tired and did not play the game, but did count the dogs just for sport. We saw two and they were both lying down.

Norris with a fish on at Four Mile Bar

Four Mile Fight

 

4 Comments so far ↓

  1. AZWanderings says:

    Great post. From everything I hear, it sounds like I am really missing out on the Ferry. I have never been, but someday I hope to remedy that. Glad to hear you are feeling better. Stay healthy and tight lines.

    Ben

  2. Mike says:

    Thanks Ben and I appreciate the well wishes.

    The Ferry is a special place. There is none other like it in the world. At one time, it was one of the best, if not the best fisheries in the world. While it is not longer that, it is still a remarkable water and one I really enjoy. Strong, wild fish and incredible scenery. What’s not to like?

  3. TBone says:

    Mike-
    Sorry to hear about the surgery and hope you (and the family) are doing well. I’m really glad you were able to get up to the Ferry and get the skunk off, my friend!
    Tom

  4. Mike says:

    Good to hear from you Tom. Hope all Four Bones are well. We are great.

    We should get the families together next summer.

    Stay in touch and thanks for stopping by.

    -Mike

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